| Matlock Bath, Derbyshire |
| The Switzerland of England |
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"If there be any object that possesses a paramount interest
over every other in this enchanting dale,
that object is High Tor. Matlock [Bath] is never mentioned but the High Tor is
associated with the idea"[1].
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High Tor, Matlock Dale. This view shows
the face in the rock. |
Matlock Bath has often been described as "the
Switzerland of England". The village lies in a steep sided
valley and is bounded by the River Derwent to the east, with the
limestone crags of High Tor and Cat Tor, originally known as Wild
Cat Tor, rising almost vertically from the river's edge in places
as the river cuts its way through the limestone rocks. There is
little on this bank of the river, apart from the railway line where
it surfaces from the tunnels, a pathway up to Starkholmes in the
heart of the village, the Lover's Walks and the old colour and
gas works sites. The houses, shops and other buildings are all
on the west bank of the river, on the slopes that lead to the mighty
Masson which rises to over 1,000 feet above sea level.
Probably the most famous and enduring image of Matlock Bath is
the view of High Tor which "like some huge bastion, lift[s]
its grey head to the sky"[2]. |
Matlock Bath's history is discussed below under
the following sub headings:
|
 Matlock Bath's Development |
Matlock Bath was part of the parish of Matlock until 1843 and the
history of the two places is intertwined. Old books and journals often
talked of Matlock, when the author was actually describing Matlock
Bath.
In early times there were few inhabitants in what we now know as Matlock
Bath because it was almost inaccessible. The village did not really
develop until a road was cut through the rocks at Scarthin Nick at
the south end of Matlock Bath and the bridle path from Matlock Bridge
was widened.
 Matlock
The old
parish of Matlock, geographical location, landowners and population
Nineteenth
century expansion, population & councils
Scarthin Nick (below)
However, the first development of any major importance followed the
discovery of the medicinal springs. "The waters were first applied
for medicinal purposes about the latter end of the seventeenth century.
The old bath, which was of wood, lined with lead, was made in 1698"
(Lysons, p.207[3]). It
was this bath that gave the place its name and visitors came to
use the bath and to drink the waters.
The village was an extremely fashionable and prosperous spa in the
nineteenth century, and was visited by the then Princess (later Queen)
Victoria on 22 Oct 1832 when she was a guest of the Duke of Devonshire
at Chatsworth House (Bryan, 1903[4]).
Water Cures
Visitors came to enjoy the spectacular scenery as well as for the
water cure. There were plenty of books to tempt the prospective tourist
about the village, which had become really popular during the Napoleonic
Wars when foreign travel was difficult for the wealthy. Matlock Bath
responded to the demand.
Several early
Matlock & Matlock Bath Guides are on this website
Bemroses
Guide: Walks and Places of Interest, about 1869
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| Famous 19th Century People Who Wrote About or Visited Matlock Bath |
- Jane Austen, who mentions Matlock in "Pride and
Prejudice" Vol. II, Chapter I
- Elizabeth Barrett Browning, as a girl
- Lord George Byron
- Erasmus Darwin
- Charles Dickens
- John Ruskin
- Sir Walter Scott
- Mary Shelley - see right
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In her Gothic novel "Frankenstein" Mary Shelley
talks of Matlock:
"We ... proceeded to Matlock, which was our next place of rest.
The country in the neighbourhood of this village resembles
Switzerland; but everything is on a lower scale ... We visited
the wondrous cave, and the little cabinets of natural history
..."
Mary actually is describing Matlock Bath.
Mary Shelley (1994) "Frankenstein"
(1818 Text) World Classics, Oxford University Press, Oxford
(Vol. III, Chapter II).
Matlock &
Matlock Bath - Poetry
Elizabeth Barrett's visit as a young girl |
Before this, in 1775, Anna Seward had written
a poem about the Derwent - her "favourite river" (Firth,
p.406[5]). Seward wasn't
the only person to write poetry about Matlock Bath.
John Wesley preached at Matlock Bath in 1761. |
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| There were also Royal
Visitors |
- 22 Oct 1832 - Princess (later Queen) Victoria and her mother,
Victoria Duchess of Kent.
- 31 July 1840 - Dowager Queen Adelaide, widow of King William
IV
- 23 September 1856 - ex-Queen Marie Amelie of France
- August 1899 - Princess Mary, Duchess of York - later Queen Mary,
wife of the future King George V
- 10 November 1815 - Archdukes John and Louis of Austria
- 5 February 1816 - Duke Nicholas of Russia, later Emperor
- 23 July 1818 - Imperial Grand Duke Michael of Russia
- 10 August 1871 - Emperor Dom Pedro II of Brazil and the Empress.
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| Hotels in Matlock Bath in the Nineteenth Century |
Ebenezer Rhodes enjoyed his visits to Matlock
Bath in the early part of the nineteenth century. His description
of the hotels he found is on the right.
At the end of the nineteenth century Matlock Bath's burgeoning
popularity amongst all levels of society is reflected in the
figures for hotel and lodging house accommodation in 1891,
as advertised in Kelly's Directory[1891].
By then the number of hotels had increased from the three
described by Rhodes to nine, plus one hydropathy establishment.
At that time Thomas Tyack was the proprietor of the New
Bath and Royal Hotels, and Mrs. Sarah Evans was at the
Temple Hotel, which was "originally built as a lodging house
or appendage to the Old Bath" (Adam, p.40[6]).
See Tyack's advertisement below
The Royal Hotel had been built on the site of Old Bath Hotel,
with the Old Pavilion set in 16 acres of woodland on the hillside
behind. In addition to the hotels there were some thirty-two
lodging houses! Refreshments of various kinds could be bought
at a the numerous refreshment rooms and restaurants. Gardens,
too, were used as to serve refreshments, especially those
on the climb up to the Heights. |
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When the writer Ebenezer Rhodes visited the village about 1824
he stayed at Varley's Hotel. He described the three inns that
were in Matlock Bath at the time as excellent. He wrote:
"The principal one [hotel] is denominated the Old Bath,
and it is a spacious building capable of affording accommodations
to nearly one hundred visitors. At this inn there is an excellent
assembly room, lighted with elegant glass chandeliers; and a
hot and cold bath are included within the establishment."
Saxton's Hotel was "a commodious house pleasantly situated
on rising ground, nearly opposite Wild Cat Tor".
Rhodes also described the discovery of the skeleton of a moose
deer, found when the foundations for the stables were being
dug. This was taken to the British Museum. The Temple was "the
principal lodging house' at that time, kept by a Mrs. Evans;
it became an hotel shortly after this date. Rhodes deemed it
to be excellent and 'one of the most delightful residences in
the place".
"Peak Scenery"
by E. Rhodes,
pub. London, Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Green, Paternoster
Row (1824)
|
The early postcard on the right shows the
New Bath Hotel (Saxton's and later Tyack's), the Bath Terrace
Hotel and Holy Trinity Church with the Royal Hotel behind it,
which are at the southern end of Matlock Bath.
The backs of the houses of Woodland Terrace and the roof of
what was Matlock Bath School at the time can be seen in the
foreground. Clifton Road winds its way up the hillside and
the domed Old Pavilion, with its 228 feet long terrace, can
also be seen.
The Old Pavilion was opened by Lord Edward Cavendish
in 1884 and was known as the Palais Royal. A band performed
twice daily at the Old Pavilion throughout the season. The
building was made of glass and had entrances on both Clifton
Road and Temple Walk.
From the latter there was a very long and wide straight drive
through planted woods. The whole valley was quite densely wooded
and the Pleasure Grounds beside the River Derwent are only
just visible on the bottom right hand side.
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Matlock Bath from Cat Tor
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There's
a coloured version of Matlock Bath from Cat Tor elsewhere
on this website
About
Holy Trinity Church
Matlock
Bath School
Old
Pavilion |
 |
|
On the left is an advertisement for the
New Bath Hotel dating from 1888 when it was run by Thomas
Tyack[2]
There are quite a few of pictures of the New
Bath on this site. For example:
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Matlock Bath has attracted both painters and writers
over the centuries and Artists Corner, opposite High Tor in Matlock
Dale, was a favourite haunt of the former. Many writers have described
the spectacular scenery in glowing terms.
Not every visitor painted a favourable picture of the scene they
encountered, though. By 1908, J. B. Firth was less flattering about
the village as he describes Matlock Bath as "a tripper's paradise"
and he clearly disliked some of the village's less attractive sites,
such as a bottling plant and paint works in the Dale (p.394[5])
. Quite a contrast with those earlier guides whose authors loved
all they saw.
Though still extremely appreciative of the
scenery, Firth describes the noise - "the bawling of the
drivers of brakes and waggonettes, the attentions of the pushing
salesmen" - and the Switchback Railway, that was for over
40 years on the river bank, as "a wanton outrage to one
of the fairest scenes in England"[5].
The Switchback Railway he mentioned was in the Derwent Pleasure
Gardens, formerly Orchard Holme or Orchard Close.
By the 1950's there was a small railway in the Derwent Gardens for children and
a paddling pool was nearby, behind the 'New' Pavilion near the landing stage.
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This second pavilion, the Royal
Pavilion, is shown on the old pre war postcard on the right.
It was built opposite the Fishpond Hotel in 1910, at a cost
of £10,000. Before and during the first war it was called
the Kursaal.
Clearly designed to impress, it was built of brick "with a large central
dome and two smaller domes; it contains a theatre, a large ground floor room
and a pump room. The council offices are situated in one wing of the building"[1912].
The Pump Room is only partially visible on the right of the picture. The Fish
Pond is in the centre of the picture.
The Pavilion was the venue for cultural events such as the Musical Festival and
dances were also held in the ballroom. The Local Council had offices in one wing
and a branch of the library was housed here in the 1950's and 60's. It is now
the home of the Mining Museum and Tourist Information Centre.
After the war cycle clubs, whose members lived in towns such as Derby, used to
visit Matlock Bath each weekend. The cyclists would often enjoy a hearty egg
and chip tea in one or other of the local cafés before returning home. A group
of cyclists, with their cycles parked on the pavement edge, can be see relaxing
on the wooden seats beside the bus stop in the photograph of the Pavilion above. |
Grand Pavilion, Matlock Bath
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The picture (right), another of a series of cards in my personal
collection, shows an omnibus belonging to William Furniss Jnr.
on South Parade and was photographed in the early part of the
twentieth century (approximately 1924). It depicts a quiet scene
as South Parade was almost deserted. However, on Bank Holidays
and summer weekends the pavements and roads and hillsides were
teeming with tourists.
Some of the houses in the village are reminiscent of Swiss chalets.
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| The Main Attractions |
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Jewett's description of the Heights of Abraham, quoted on
the right, is not an exaggeration. The view from the summit
today, which can now be reached by cable car, is truly wonderful.
Those who still chose to visit the Heights as pedestrians,
just as the Victorians did, are able to walk up through
the delightful gardens. It is well worth the effort if you
are fit.
In the picture of South Parade with the bus in it, immediately
above this section, the Upper Tower in the grounds of the
Heights is the white building amongst the trees at the top,
just left of centre. This was the home of Samuel Sprinthall
who was at the Heights of Abraham for many years and was
the great grandfather of Peter Aspey. Peter also lived there
and he describes life at the Heights, its ownership and history
on his website. Peter includes a postcard dating from 1870
and describes both the Great Rutland and Great Masson Caverns
in considerable detail.
Peter
Aspey's website (see his Personal Details/Early History) |
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"One of the greatest attractions of Matlock [Bath] is
the wooded slopes called the Heights of
Abraham, and the gigantic mountain Masson towering
above it. ... On arriving at the summit the scene is truly
grand and seems to strike the mind with awe ; the view
from this point embraces five counties".
Jewitt, L., "Nooks and Corners
of Derbyshire"
Further details of the Heights of Abraham for those wishing
to visit, either on foot or by the cable car, can be found
on their website.
Heights
of Abraham site
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The Petrifying Wells also attracted tourists.
In 1888, Black's
"Guide to Derbyshire" recorded that 'a penny
is the ordinary charge for admission to these wells'. (p.225[2]).
The
onsite transcripts of "Gem of the Peak" have
more on petrifying wells and the numerous caverns
The public promenade opened in 1874, along the riverbank
opposite North Parade. People were entertained on 'The Prom'
and there were regular performances from the Band Stand on
the opposite side of the river. As well as local bands, entertainers
returned to Matlock Bath year after year to please the crowds.
On the same side of the river as the Band Stand is the Lovers'
Walks, with footpaths both on the river's edge and
up through the woodland to the summit. The Jubilee Bridge
has spanned the River Derwent for over a century; it originally
connected the Promenade across to the Lovers' Walks, though
the Promenade has now gone. The iron bridge was put in
place on 14 June, 1887 in time for the Jubilee of Queen
Victoria eight days later. A second footbridge, connecting
the Lovers' Walks and the Derwent Gardens a bit further
down river, was finally erected some years ago. |
"Another truly delightful part of Matlock [Bath] is the
Lovers' Walks, on the opposite side of the river from the village
and Masson. These walks are entered from the ferry, and embrace
nearly the whole of the eastern side of the dale".
Jewitt, L., "Nooks and Corners of Derbyshire"
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The Fountain Baths,
was on the opposite side of the road from the promenade;
it is now the Matlock Bath Aquarium. There were several private
baths and a large swimming bath supplied by spring water
which had a temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit.
The proprietors of these attractions have been listed in
various directories. Those in 1891 included W.E. Howe at
the Fountain Baths & Assembly Room, Samuel Sprinthall
who was the lessee of the Heights of Abraham (already mentioned,
above), William B. Hunt at Matlock Bath Skating Rink, Frederick
Downs was the Manager of the Pavilion & Gardens and Robert
Hall was listed as Secretary for Matlock & High Tor Recreation
Grounds Co. Ltd. Cavern proprietors were Job Hall Cardin
at High Tor Grotto in The Dale, Jacob Rains and William Smedley[1891].
Five years later little had changed, although Mrs Howe was
at the Fountain Baths and the Skating Rink was not listed.
However, by 1916 most of these concerns had changed hands:
James Fearn was at the Fountain Baths, Robert Hall had taken
over the High Tor Grotto and the Pavilion and gardens had
become the property of the Royal Hotel. There was by then
a Matlock Bath Improvements Society,
based at Riversdale, and Thomas Coates was the Hon. Secretary.[1916] |
One of the ways visitors travelled to Matlock Bath was by train:
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| How the Majority of the
Residents Earned a Living |
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| Scarthin Nick |
"SCARTHIN NICK is a hamlet pleasantly
situated on an eminence on the southern border of this parish
[Matlock], adjoining the village of Cromford" (p. 107, Kelly's)[1855]. It
had, like Matlock Bath, been part of the ancient parish of
Matlock.
Black's Guide, 1888, (pp.130-1)[2],
says "Scarthin Nick is an opening between two massive limestone
rocks, through which the turnpike road passes. Close to these
rocks is the entrance lodge to Willersley Castle, the drive
passing along between the river Derwent and the rocky boundary
of the grounds, until it reaches the bridge".
"Here is a Mission church, erected in 1871, with a belfry,
containing one bell, in which divine service is held every
Sunday and Wednesday evenings. There are also Primitive and
Wesleyan Methodist chapels, the former erected in 1853, and
the latter many years since, but enlarged in 1840" (p. 330,
Kelly's)[1916].
Roman coins were found here in March 1795, close to the head
of a human skeleton.
See
documentary evidence in The Wolley Manuscripts, Matlock
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For such a small place Scarthin
had quite a large population.
View onsite
transcripts of the census returns
There's a newborn infant, Robert James White, one of the youngest
children I've come across in a census return, who can be found
living in Scarthin with his family at Schedule 101 in the 1861
Go
to 1861 census page
Scarthin residents and businesses were listed under Matlock
in several onsite Trade Directories.
Kelly's
1848 Directory
Kelly's
1855 Directory
White's
1857 Directory
White's
1862 Directory
They were also listed under Cromford directories, which are
onsite
Cromford, Derbyshire: A collection of trades directory transcripts - and a quotation. An index, plus links to a good deal of onsite material about the village. The quote I mention is from Firth's 1908 book[5] about Derbyshire and there's an old postcard of the village.
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Photographs and scanned images provided by and
© the webmistress, unless stated.
Information researched by and © Ann Andrews. Intended for personal
use only
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References (coloured hyperlinks are to transcripts elsewhere on this
website):
[1] Jewitt, Llewellynn
Frederick William (?1860)
"The Matlock Companion and Visitor's Guide to the Beauties
of the Peak of Derbyshire ... " pub. Derby Telegraph Office:
Derby
[2] "Black's Tourist Guide to Derbyshire"
(1888) pub. Adam and Charles Black Edinburgh
[3 ] Lysons, Rev Daniel and Samuel Lysons Esq.
(1817) "Topographical and Historical Account of Derbyshire"
London: Printed for T. Cadell, Strand; and G. and A. Greenland, Poultry
[4] Bryan, Benjamin (1903) "History
of Matlock - Matlock, Manor and Parish" London by Bemrose
& Sons, Limited
[5] Firth, J.B. (1908) "Highways and
Byways in Derbyshire" MacMillan & Co., London
[6] Adam, W. (1840) "The Gem of the
Peak" London; Longman & Co., Paternoster Row MDCCCXL
[1855] "The Post
Office Directory of Derbyshire, Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire
and Rutlandshire", pub. Kelly and Co., London (1855)
[1891] "Kelly's Directory of the
Counties of Derby, Notts, Leicester and Rutland" (May,
1891), pub. London
[1895] "Kelly's Directory of Derbyshire,
Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire and Rutland", pub.
London (1895)
[1899] "Kelly's Directory of Derbyshire,
Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire and Rutland", pub.
London (1899) |
}
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There are online
transcripts:
19th century directories |
[1912] "Kelly's Directory of Derbyshire", 1912 (not transcribed on this site)
[1916]"Kelly's Directory of Derbyshire", 1916 } There are online transcripts: 20th century
directories
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