AN INSPECTOR CALLSHesket Newmarket brewer Mike Parker was invited to a recent CAMRA branch meeting to talk about his double life as a Cask Marque inspector.
Mike is very aware that many CAMRA members have concerns about the validity of an award which has to be paid for, but the commitment which Mike demonstrated for his work, coupled with his credentials as a brewer and brewing chemist and quality controller in breweries of all sizes, won most of the branch members over to his view. In particular members were impressed with the work that Cask Marque put in working with the brewing and pub industry to improve cellarmanship and awareness of the product.
Mike had already retired twice, first from brewing and then from running a pub, when he was one of five brewing experts contacted by Paul Nunny who first conceived the idea of Cask Marque in 1998. An initial survey of beer dispensed in sample of pubs found that 25% of beer served was so poor that no discerning drinker would have stayed for a second pint! And a staggering 83% of beer was served too warm.
Mike took on Cumbria and the North East as his patch. The five inspectors set about developing assessment criteria they could use, the first being that beer temperature should ideally be in the range 10-14șC, although up to 15.5șC would be acceptable. He also demonstrated how by using a maglite torch the clarity of beer could be assessed and different types of haze detected. Aroma and flavour are rather more subjective, but again various off flavours and smells can indicate different problems with cellarmanship such as cleanliness of beer lines. Visits to applicant pubs are always unannounced, and they have to meet the criteria on two occasions. When a pub fails, Mike tries to help licensee pin point where their quality control is lacking. He finds that many landlords are appreciative of the advice, especially in large pub groups where bar managers have received little or no training.
Cask Marque awards are made to the licensee not the pub, so they take the award with them if they move pubs. Jennings was one of the first breweries to join the scheme; most breweries sign up as corporate members and then subsidise the cost of subscription for those pubs they put forward. There are now 27 breweries in the scheme as well as a number of pubcos such as Laurel, Enterprise, Spirit and JD Wetherspoon.
The number of inspectors has grown from 5 to 30, and now includes people who specialise in areas such as cellar service. A recent project has resulted in the development of a glass washing charter.
Although they have their own geographical patches, inspectors from a brewing background like Mike may travel to other parts of the country to give specialist advice. SIBA, the Society of Independent Brewers, is trying to develop the assessment criteria into a code of practice, and Mike is leading a team of master brewers, including Dave Smith the brewing consultant, to assess compliance with the code.