News of its nomination as Sunday
Times Cookbook of the Year
Persia in Peckham: Hidden in today’s Sunday Times Culture
section is a list of recommended books with one, Persia in Peckham,
Recipes from Persepolis by Sally Butcher, highlighted as their Cookbook of
the Year.
"This gem of a book mixes alluring Persian recipes with
tales of modern Iran and insights about running a corner shop in southeast
London. What makes Persia in Peckham so gripping is the engaging authorial
voice of Sally Butcher, who explains everything from persimmons to pickles
with zip and charm. A university dropout, Butcher married an Iranian and
together they run a magical bazaar on Peckham high street called
Persepolis. The recipes (which are extremely doable in a Claudia Rodenish
way) reflect the food that the coupel sells: moreshish tahini dips and
broad bean pulaco, spicy kofta meatballs, sticky honeyed pastries,
sour-cherry jam and cooling sherbets. Like a great corner shop, the book
is stuffed with unexpected aspides on cinema in Iran, or the link between
the Iranian love of saffron fudge and the large number of Iranian
dentists."
The literary agent David Higham’s
website relating to Persia in Peckham
PERSEPOLIS shortlisted for the Andre SImon Book Awards
2007 and named Sunday Times Cookbook of the Year
Persepolis is a foodie's paradise. Sally Butcher and her
husband Jamshid have created a food store from heaven, gathering all
that's best from Iran and the Middle East. Chef and food writer Tom
Norrington Davies remarks that 'Persepolis is my corner shop. But even if
it wasn't, I'd happily cross town and country to get there. Otherwise, I'd
miss the heady scent of their herbs and spices every time I opened my
kitchen cupboards. Persepolis is an emporium in the true sense of the
word. It feels exotic and local all at once, and this is, in no small
part, thanks to Sally Butcher. She is always happy to give advice on
everything from chick peas to hookahs with the same warm mix of humour,
expertise and enthusiasm. And if the samovar is on you get all the above
with a cuppa. Persepolis is the sort of place no neighbourhood should be
without.' This book distils all that is remarkable about this shop and the
style of cooking that it supports. Sally herself is English, but she has
had to learn the ways of her customers and her husband's family. She is a
matchless interpreter of Persian food and cookery, as well as of modern
Iran and the tremendous changes that have been going on in that society
since the revolution. This book should be seen as a way for British
readers to enter into the Persian experience; to understand how the
cuisine has developed; and to appreciate how the cookery (and the society)
is reacting to the modern world. The recipes are full and informative,
covering every aspect of Persian cookery from soups and stews to drinks
and sweetmeats. This will be a book to remember; and a book that will be
applauded and endorsed by some of the most respected of our modern food
writers and chefs.
Praise for PERSIA IN PECKHAM Named Sunday Times Cookbook
of the Year: 'A gem of a book [that] mixes alluring Persian recipes with
tales of modern Iran and insights about running a corner shop in southeast
London. What makes Persia in Peckham so gripping is the engaging authorial
voice of Sally Butcher, who explains everything from persimmons to pickles
with zip and charm... Like a great corner shop, the book is stuffed with
unexpected treats – little asides on cinema in Iran, or the link between
the Iranian love of saffron fudge and the large number of Iranian
dentists' Named by Charles Campion in The Independent on Sunday as one of
his favourite cookbooks for Christmas. Picked by Kate Colquhoun in the
Telegraph's round up of great Cookbooks for Christmas: 'good recipes ...
with great insights into a captivating culture'. Names as one of Time
Out's Christmas Cookbooks: 'Butcher says that the book aims to be a
‘kitchen-table book, rather than a coffee-table book’, and it is. There
are no lusty food-porn images (though there are some nice line drawings)
and the author has a writing style that’s witty and charmingly irreverent.
So too with the recipes. From kebabs and khoreshes (stews) and kuftehs
(stuffed rissoles or meatballs) to pulaos (rice dishes), classic Persian
recipes make up the bulk of the book. Yet the recipes aren’t precious or
overinvolved, and are written in a way that’s likely to encourage
neophytes. The book also delves into the wider culture of Iran, covering
topics such as the Persian music scene, Iranians and their relationship
with Islam and Iranian wedding rituals. One chapter is dedicated to ‘The
Peckham Influence’, with recipes that reflect the multi-ethnic mix of this
particular slice of southeast London, such as suya chelow with jerk
chicken, or Persian pizzas. It’s a book that – like the best kitchens – is
marked by tolerance, generosity and great food.'
DAILY TELEGRAPH 21 September 2007
Xanthe Clay
Xanthe Clay has unearthed the secret delights of a
suburban London treasure trove There's a secret gastronomic port of call
that has been drawing leading chefs such as Sam and Sam Clark of Moro and
Tom Norrington-Davies for years. It's not in Notting Hill, or the
Cotwolds, or some other foodie hot spot. It's on Peckham High Street in
south-east London. Sally Butcher and her Iranian husband, Jamshid Golshan
Ebrahimi, set up Persepolis Food Stores six years ago, after leaving the
Greek restaurant where they both worked. Today, their shop is an Aladdin's
cave of high-quality Arabian food stuffs, as well as Arabic CDs, Persian
carpets and vividly coloured Iranian glass and china. Butcher has a
passion to share her love of all things Persian (or Iranian - the words
can be used more or less interchangeably). She's usually on hand to answer
questions, give advice and hand out recipes from opening time until the
shop shuts at 10pm. Yellow signs posted around the shop also offer her wry
tips. "Jamshid's family call me 'the bowl hotter than the soup'," she
laughs. "It means I'm more Iranian than the Iranians." Persian food is
"all about contrasts," says Butcher. It revolves around the people's love
of rice and sweet/salty/sour combinations. Meals always start with fresh
cheese and mounds of fresh herbs, called sabzi, and are followed by
generously spiced, fragrant meat. Now Butcher's encyclopaedic knowledge
and witty style have found a home in her new book, Persia in Peckham, a
treasure trove of Persian recipes and folklore with a south London slant.
It's quirky, idiosyncratic and probably not for beginners, but the recipes
are delicious and imbued with her passion and pragmatism. And if there's a
problem, you can always call Peckham and Butcher will know the
answer.