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[the village] |
When pilgrims approached Walsingham prior to the reformation, many of them stopped at the "Slipper Chapel", now the Catholic Shrine, to remove their footwear and walk the last mile and a bit to the Holy House barefoot.
The route was along what is now known as the Holy Mile, the road along the valley. The idea of walking the last section appeals, but the topology of the road, with fairly fast traffic and no footpaths for most of its length, mitigates against it.
Cue what may be Walsingham's best kept secret. There is a signboard at exit from the car park into the village, but it would be easy to miss. I can't find any evidence of a sign by the Catholic shrine at all, which is a shame. Instructions for finding it are at the end of this page.
The walk is primarily along the disused railway track: I reckon that it's wheelchair accessible throughout but I'm no real expert so perhaps someone could confirm that for me. We walked out from the village to the Slipper Chapel and Chapel of Reconciliation, and then back again. It was Candlemas, everything was covered in snow, and it was beautiful. The route runs out along Back Lane to the last crossroads. This takes some confidence because by the time you pass the de-restriction sign, psychologically the edge of the village, the turning still isn't in sight because of the brow of a hill. Turn right at the crossroads and walk uphill along a metalled road to the railway line. Several wooden posts mark the limit for vehicles and just beyond them is another signboard like the one at the car park. This is the start of the new path.
The next three quarters of a mile or so are along the bed of the railway, so almost dead flat. There are benches at regular intervals and there are, as advertised, wonderful views over the valley. In the depths of winter I don't think I could have faced it barefoot, but it warmer weather I'd have little problem, although I do walk barefoot a lot so the soles of my feet are a bit like leather.
Approaching Houghton St Giles you are rewarded for your efforts with a view from the embankment of the railway that isn't so striking from road level. The vast tiled roof of the Chapel of Reconciliation looks like a barn but is in fact much larger. From this level you can compare it with the much smaller Slipper Chapel and get an idea of scale that's just not possible from close up.
The end of the walk turns left down a farm track paved with concrete slabs, and emerges onto the main road just north of the Slipper Chapel. Aim to spend some time just soaking up the atmosphere, then retrace your steps to Walsingham.
I suspect that's how it's meant to work. As good little pilgrims we park in the designated part of Walsingham or dismount from our coaches, walk out to the Slipper Chapel and return in time for lunch. What, then, of someone who wants to do it the old way. Generations of pilgrims have prayed at the Slipper Chapel before walking to the Holy House and I think that'd make a fine exercise.
There's a car park near the chapel, which is on the edge of Houghton St Giles. you can park there, visit the Chapel of Reconciliation and then step into the Slipper Chapel and the modern Holy Souls (the entrance is to the rear) When you come out of the gate, look to your right, about fifty yards along the road on the opposite side, just past the chapel's front gate. There you'll see a track with a hedge on the far side of it. That's the start of the Pilgrim's way, and from the point at which you reach the railway the rest is fairly obvious. Enjoy.